tailored to a t
one of the most powerful things about making your own wardrobe is that you get to control every aspect of it from start to finish. so many of us have had the experience of standing in a badly lit dressing room in a mall, staring miserably at a pile of clothes that looked cute enough on the rack but looked totally different on our bodies, while a staff person calls from the other side of the curtain, "would you like to try another size?"
fun fact: it's very rare that anything is going to fit your body perfectly right off the rack, even if your body proportions fit so-called "standard sizing." celebrities look great in t-shirts and jeans because they have tailors whose literal job is to adjust the base garment to fit their client's unique body. and we all have unique bodies! that's a normal fact of nature.
no two trees or flowers are alike, and yet somehow we've come to accept the false narrative that our human bodies need to fit some narrow definition of what equals "beauty," whether that's influenced by colonialism, culture, gender, ableism, or any other number of oppressive systems.
honestly, fuck that. your body is an incredible complex creature (organs are truly wild, and have you thought about how breathing happens??), and clothing it is both a necessity (we've got delicate skin, bbs) and an opportunity for creativity and expressing our identity. over time, i'm willing to bet that your relationship with your body will change for the positive, regardless of where you're starting now, as you make the clothes that will go on top of it. it's some serious everyday magic.
tailoring your own clothes is an incredibly useful skill, whether you’re making everything from scratch, purchasing from a size-inclusive slow fashion company, or buying rtw (ready to wear) fast fashion). the outfit above features a pair of shorts that i made grading 2 sizes up between waist to hips plus extra darts at the back to reduce the waist gaping, and the top was a self-drafted boxy crop that benefitted from a couple of underbust darts to pull the hemline in closer to my body (this wouldn’t work well if the top was solely woven fabric, but the knitted back gives it the necessary stretch to pull over my head and shoulders without risking some peek-a-boob when i raise my arms).
mods and alterations got you spooked?
here are some great resources to help you navigate the world of pattern modifications. understanding them will also allow you to tailor clothes you purchase.
size-inclusive sizing data - compiled by kim mcbrien evans, this data is extremely helpful for anyone interested in size grading.
how to modify knitting patterns - knitting can be easier for modifying than sewing because it's stretchy, but first you need to understand the math.
making for accessibility - follow hashtags like #disabledknittersofinstagram or #sewdisabled to find makers who are making their wardrobe with accessibility top of mind.
common sewing mods - this book is a comprehensive starting point for the basic steps involved in altering clothes. it's a good library add!
creative hinterland course - this video course from sew liberated teaches more adventurous sewists how to pattern hack & draft.
creative coven online design - my signature knit design course comes full of resources so you truly get the fundamentals.
by having pants and shorts made with the exact same pattern and the exact same fabric, plus three shirts made with the same pattern, i’ve given myself six different outfit options for hot or cool weather. perfect for my trip to oaxaca in the southern mexican mountains!
the resources in this post were originally published in the me-made wardrobe mini course’s workbook. learn more about making your own slow fashion wardrobe in the me-made wardrobe mini course, available 24/7 in the creative coven community.